Build a Fishing rod? - Why build when you can buy?

Building a fishing rod is not for everyone.  Buying is faster and even inexpensive rods these days are of good quality.  So why bother? To me it’s an accomplishment that can’t be enjoyed by just anyone.  I enjoy the process, the planning, the craft, the results, and the great feeling I get when I catch a fish with a rod and fly I created – something that has no price tag.

I first got the building bug watching my Dad.  He was a great father, fisherman and builder – a craftsman actually.

My Dad - a few years before I arrived

Dad considered himself a “cabinet maker.” He could do anything with wood – from remodeling a room to building furniture to building a boat to building a house, two for our family and many more throughout his career – including the electrical and plumbing.  And, lovingly creating a cradle for his grandchildren. 

Boat being built by my Dad  - again before my time

And, of course, he also built a fishing rod.  A fly rod to be exact – a kit from Herter’s. 
He fished with a 9’ hollow steel fly rod and a 7’ split bamboo fly rod most of the time, but after re-tying several guides on the steel rod and letting me use the bamboo, he bought a new fly rod – an 8’6” Shakespeare Wonder Rod, FY 300 – comparable to an 8 weight today. 

Two of my Dad's fly rods grace a wall in my den

Both rods are older than I am - Dad taught me to fly fish with the Bamboo (top) when I was 10.  

But the Shakespeare was a bit heavy for everything, so he built a nice little trout rod.  He really enjoyed using a tool that he created, and felt justifiably proud when he caught a fish with equipment of his own construction.  (BTW – I still use both of those rods)

His enjoyment in creating, using and being successful with something crafted with his own hands was always apparent when we fished together and that spirit stayed with me. 

I built my first rod over 35 years ago and in the next 10 years made about 3 dozen for friends, family and myself.  

Eddie Heller, circa 1985 - the man that took pity on me and taught me everything I know about ice-fishing and fishing for smallmouth bass and brown trout on the NYC watershed system.  The fish are brown trout Eddie caught on the Croton Falls Reservoir.  The rod he's holding is one I made for him - a small token of my great appreciation for his friendship.

My Daughter Kristin, age 2, on her first fishing trip fighting her first fish - a 15" largemouth bass.  Along with the bass, she caught several yellow  perch and white bass.  She's using the first of two rods I made for her.  A third rod, an 8', 6 wt.  fly rod is in the planning stage.

But, using my basic math skills, it’s been about 25 years since my last rod project – too long. 

I built my favorite fly rod from a Don Phillips, one of a kind, 4 weight, 9’6” solid boron fiber blank in 1983 and have caught everything on it from panfish to trout to a 39” Chinook Salmon in the Devil’s Lake fork of the Wilson River in Oregon on a size 6 natural Teeny nymph I tied. 

I've repaired my Don Phillips rod twice – once when the top three inches broke off and again about three years ago when the boron fibers started to separate.  I had to call Don – currently a fishing writer in Florida – for consultation on that one.

The rod still works great, but I don’t want to use it till it disintegrates, so I thought it was time for a back-up rod.  Plus, I recently took an interest in Tenkara fly fishing and Spey and Switch fly rods. 
Tenkara is another story, although I did build a couple rods – sort of.  James and Kristin will understand.

Tenkara flies I tied - note the forward facing hackle.

Spey rods are the very long –  15’ and longer  – two handed fly rods first developed on the River Spey in Scotland for Salmon fishing.  Spey rods were gaining popularity for Steelhead fishing on the west coast back in the 1990’s, and I've seen some in Western NY lately.

Spey Casting -  Photo Courtesy  moldychum.com

Courtesy Photo | Erik Rambo - Pete Humphreys casts with his spey rod. 

The Spey casting technique is fascinating, but the rod is really long and a bit unwieldy and highly specialized.  Thus – the Switch rod – which is coming on strong.  Typically about 11’, most of them can be used with the two handed Spey casting techniques as well as switching to traditional one handed casting depending on the situation. Thus the name “Switch”. 

Orvis has two excellent lines of Switch rods and whenever I’m at the Eastern Hills Orvis, I check them out.  Adam S. at Orvis is really an expert.  He’s been very helpful explaining the Switch rod techniques and the line and reels that go into making a complete outfit.  And there’s the rub – while top quality, a complete Orvis Switch outfit is way out of my budget.  So, while I save my nickels and dimes for an Orvis, I found a switch rod kit I could afford now till I can afford my Orvis. 

5 wt. 10' 6" switch rod components - the tape marks the guide position and spine of the rod.  My first rod project in way too many years is ready to start!

$55 plus shipping and a couple new spools of thread (the 2 dozen spools I had were just not quite the right color) and fresh Flex Coat for protecting the guide wraps, and I had a new 5 weight, 10’6” switch rod – after about 16 hours of work - over 3 weeks .  

It’s amazing how much you can forget about rod building after 25 years.  This 5 wt. is too light for steelhead, but it's designed as a backup for my 4 weight.  And at $55 a shot – my next one will be an 8 weight. Of course if I wait another 25 years to build it – well let’s not even go there!

So, here it is in a brief (finally) pictorial of going from component to complete. 

A few notes so I don't lose my way!

A small selection of my thread collection.

Fortunately, I kept my tools and this chart for proper spacing of guides.

After the base wrap, the guide goes on.  Three basic guides - the Snake guides (pictured here) for most of the rod, plus Stripping Guides and the tip top. 

The wraps have no knots.  the tag ends of the thread are looped and pulled under the last few wraps on the guide as shown here.

Shown above is a cotton twine "spacer" to snugly attache the reel seat.

After the guides are wrapped, they need to be protected.  Two coats of Flex Coat do the job.  The rod needs to be rotated until the Flex Coat is dry - 6 - 8 hours. Shown here a basic wrapping rack and motor to rotate the rod till dry.  I made the rack and several other tools for rod building back "in the day!"

FINALLY!  All done and ready to go!

I'm using my classic Orvis Battenkill Mark IV - 30 year old reel on a brand new rod - perfect combination!

The next photo of my 5 weight Switch will include a fish!

Thanks for stopping by!  See you on the water!

Dave